Adventure in Costa Rica

By Clifford Krolick

Clifford Krolick took a pair of 2003 Dahon Matrix bikes on a mountain biking expedition to Costa Rica in 2004. Reprinted here is an excerpt of his write-up of the trip.

By February ‘04 it was time to “Get Out of Dodge” and head for the warmth and sun of jungles, unspoiled beaches, rainforests, and some rocking mountain biking in Costa Rica. Why Costa Rica? It’s a real adventure destination. There were more backpacks and hiking boots than matching luggage and golf clubs coming off the baggage carousel at San Jose International Airport. You can enjoy pristine white beaches and steamy tropical jungles in the morning and be in cooler, dryer mountains later the same day. Costa Ricans are open and friendly and take pleasure in sharing their incredible natural treasures with others.

There is much to do and many places to see, but we focused on three distinct and different locations. My partner Katy and I chose Monte Verde, the Caribbean Coastline, and the Orosi Valley—all within easy reach of each other and San Jose.

Katy and I, traveling with two of my latest toys (Dahon folding aluminum, full-size mountain bikes), clothes, and some gear in hand hopped the 6:30 bus and headed to Monte Verde, a small village about 3500’ elevation in a Cloud Forest Reserve. Our bus left the traffic behind as we turned off the highway and started up the dirt road leading into the mountains. All the up-hill bus riding, with steep switchbacks and hairpin turns, made us think that this was an opportunity for an incredible downhill ride. After several hours on the bus we were just itching to get on our bikes.

At last we reached our hotel, unfolded the bikes, and set off. Dirt roads and paths led off in all directions. I noticed most locals were getting around by motorbike, 4-wheel drive or walking. No wonder, this was a hilly place! We were quickly seasoned back into biking shape. The ups provided a workout, but the downs were fast. Our flashy folding bikes attracted a couple of young local riders who let us follow them up into the cloud forest. Here we stopped at the hummingbird preserve and watched hundreds of hummingbirds come in to feed. On their recommendation, we also rode to the local butterfly garden to experience the thrill of hundreds of butterflies fluttering around our head.

The hours flew by and it was time to put on the feedbag. We rode down to the next village below, Santa Elena, and ate at a local “soda” small mom and pop restaurant, where you can get some of the freshest local food at the cheapest prices. Our waiter, who just happened to be a mountain biker, noticed our bikes. We began talking about that incredible downhill we noticed on the bus ride up. His eyes lit up, and the next thing we knew he was suggesting that we take it down, but go down by way of the village of San Louis, stopping to hike a trail into the rainforest to see a 150’ waterfall (Catarata). Sometimes winging it and listening to the locals can pay off with great adventures. The timing and logistics would be critical since we’ll be riding down the mountain for close to 25 miles we needed to time it so we could catch the bus on its daily journey back up avoiding that climb back.

It was picture perfect the next morning. We went up in order to pick up the potholed dirt road over to San Louis. Then it was down hill from there. Bikes purring through gorgeous passes, birds, orchids, views, and spritzed upon by the passing water vapor that was always present in the cloud forest. We never seemed to get wet because the sun was always shining. This was be a day that the brakes were put to the test. After an hour or so of going down we turned off towards the trailhead to the waterfall, left the bikes and hiked to the falls. It was hard to leave the power of the falls, but we finally continued down through the sleepy village of San Louis dodging cattle and horses grazing on the edge of the road. The downhill continued for at least another 1.5 hours! We arrived at our rendezvous point ahead of schedule with road grit in our teeth from smiling all the way down, and a couple of biker-sized appetites. We hit another soda for a late lunch of fresh fish from the local stream and fresh squeezed fruit juice. While waiting for the bus a passing car decided that we needed a lift and took us back up the mountain . . . what a treat!

Cliff Krolick is the founder and operator of Back Country Excursions, a commercial mountain biking adventure center in southern Maine in the U.S. , which has been in operation since 1991. Cliff also leads international biking trips to places such as Costa Rica, and Tuscany, and now has partnered with a Bhutan adventure company to lead biking treks to Bhutan.

For further information about Cliff’s center or next trip into Bhutan please visit: http://www.bikebackcountry.com/tours_events/spec_events.php#abroad.